Fiddling the Landy:
|* Takes you off this site:|
|Things that have to be done||In progress|
|Watch this space....|
|June 21st 2008||Added
permanent A-frame attachment points to my Landy [bought the A-frame
when I still had the Hilux. (A-frame points were added 19
July 2004 on the Guest Landy -
see December 18th 2003).
Additional driving lights 4 x 100W.
Added rear fuel tank. 55 litres brining the on board capacity to approximately 145 liter - range at a reasonable speed now 1 300km
|Feb 5th 2007||Sourced 4 x new
BF Goodrich All-terrain tires for the Landy and placed them in storage.
Current BF Goodrich All-terrain tires have done ±80 000km and should be good
for another 20 000km (local price increase due at the end of the month 16%).
Replaced Main and Auxiliary batteries with Silver Cadmium batteries. Auxiliary battery failed round negative terminal, damaged Main battery.
2nd Fuel tank added under passenger seat, 35 liter.
Installed a 12V DC / 220V AC power supply.
Top Fender guards.
|November 2006||Replaced the 9000lb electric winch, original stolen at Johannesburg International Airport. Welded the 2nd one to the Landy.|
|June 2006||Added an 9000lb
Added a 2-way radio.
|Dec 27th 2005||Added a Waeco fridge.27 Dec 2005|
|March 31st 2005||Just for the record, assisted a Land Cruiser Diesel 31 Mar 2005 , fixed an overheating Toyota Corolla at the local garage (water temperature sensor & electric radiator fan problem - jolly useful having some tools in the Defender), sorted a fuel flow problem on a "just serviced" Toyota Run-X (in-line filter installed incorrectly). Both these in the last 10 days.23 Feb 2005 December 2003 - towed a "dead" Isuzu on a local AFB.20 March 2005|
|February 7th 2005||Electronic (immobilizer) failure on the a TDi 90 on the Westonaria - Potchefstroom road - makeshift rewire (19 January 2005), just enough to get them home. Just as a matter of interest the symptoms point to a "air lock" or fuel lift pump failure, to confirm that the actual problem is not an electrical failure, switch on the ignition (all red lights on the dash ON) under the hood (bonnet) locate the diesel pump, at the back there is a wire which supplies 12V DC to the fuel cut off solenoid. Gently unplug the wire (push on lug) a soft "click" should be heard, no click no fuel, no go. Plan B to get somewhere - wire directly from the battery "+" to the solenoid - strip a shot section of insulation fold it over the "male stud" and jam the push on female lug over the stud to connect. In the cab cut the wire and "build" a makeshift switch, remember that the engine will not stop until the power is interrupted and there is no protection regarding the wire and "switch" if you have a loose "in line fuse" use it. (Using a source of power that gets interrupted while the engine cranks will not work, no power no fuel no start). For a more sane description - drop me an e-mail.|
|January 14th 2005||Installed a 12VDC to 110V AC 60Hz 140VA inverter (this is to support the visitors from planet USA).|
|December 21st 2004||New brake vacuum assist pump installed.|
|December 1st 2004||Electronic (immobilizer) failure on the "Guest" Land Rover - rewired - now works as advertised again.|
|November 1st 2004||Mounted the hi-lift base plate onto the spare wheel carrier - bolted on with "wing nuts".|
|October 12th 2004||Attended to a electronic failure on the "Guest" Land Rover - immobilizer went nuts - added temporary manual override to diesel fuel solenoid on high pressure pump. This is scheduled to be upgraded to a permanent feature on the "Guest" and will add the required circuitry to my own at the same time (might just come in handy - made a 600km trip to fix this - in the bush this could be costly - simple solution).|
|July 27th 2004||Fixed hand/parking brake. Needed adjusting. (17mm socket and some patience is all it takes. 1/16th turn is all it needs....)|
|June 2004||Bought 2nd hand Hi-Lift jack.|
|June 1st 2004||a) 2nd
hand - Frontrunner roof carrier.
b) Spade carrier.
c) Hi Lift jack carrier.
d) Dual Jerry Can Holder.
e) Trunk (Needs some attention - will have it sandblasted and then powder coated).
|May 15th 2004||a)
Bull Bar fitted. Looking good.
b) Added a Mk2 closing spring - 1.3g pull to ensure secure latching (this one pulls the mechanism - the previous version was a compression spring - push the mechanism closed - did not work that well). Working way better then the Mk1 installed April 4th 2004.
|April 24th 2004||Fixed the loose paneling in the rear (center section), adjusted and strengthened the support. Interior lights are now working 100% to specification. (New rattle - will investigate - getting worse [27 May 2004])|
|April 18th 2004||Added a Reverse / Area light to the rear, switched with the official reverse light and manual switch located on light, power is supplied via a relay from the dual battery system (2nd battery).|
|April 11th 2004||Replaced the fuse holder supplying
the "after market" official LR South Africa Air Conditioner,
this LR part is really not up to the task required from it. The fuse unit
overheated, the holder melted and prevented the fuse from making proper
contact, resulting in:
a) Hot connection and
b) intermittent functionality.
|April 4th 2004||Added a "closing spring" to the bonnet latch mechanism under the hood to ensure secure latching. Working quite well. (Severe movement on dirt roads used to cause the latch to release - safety latch then did its bit).|
|January 5th 2004||Replaced the entire return fuel line again, 3mm ID hose this time. The previous try was with 4mm hose and the leak spread to all 4 injectors. Did not want to add the mass of hose-clamps to the banjo flange. Tight fitting hose should do the trick as this is a low pressure line.|
|January 2nd 2004||Rubberized the floor in the rear. Installed a platform between the wheel arches (Al angle iron bracket and laminated board), when the seats are removed the platform gives a level load area in the back with a drawer below. Works like a charm.|
|December 23rd 2003||Almost purchased the additional lights- daughter objected to the style, will continue the search for a "teenage" approved fitting. (By the way the cost of Pratley "Steel Putty" at Game (±150%) is higher than at Pick-'n-Pay (±125%) which is still higher then the local Maxi Hardware (100%).|
|December 22nd 2003||Repaired the bonnet release handle. The "ears" broke (weak design LR should upgrade this to a heavy duty in keeping with the vehicle), also cleaned the actual bonnet latch mechanism, boy was this sticky with dirt and old grease (could also do with some re-design allowing for user servicing/upgrading).|
|December 21st 2003||Installing the relay wiring for additional driving lights. Utilizing the "Fog Light" switch. Unfinished installation.|
|December 20th 2003||Replaced the entire return fuel line with new hose. Still leaking after Dastek did the compression test. By elimination the leak may now be on the Banjo flange, will wheel by the local mechanic for advice.|
|December 18th 2003||Guest
Took a friends Landy for a Lube
Change and overhauled the wiring to the auxiliary driving lights.
Oils: Front diff oil really needed the change - contaminated by water when he hauled a warthog (Pumba - for those who are on first name terms) from a waterhole. The whole operation - Front & Rear Diff, Transfer and Main Gearbox - 20 minutes. No mess no fuss. Cool. (Have now bough the required "T55" tool and will in future attend to this myself. Will take longer, messier - but DIY is half the fun.)
Electrics: Now has a proper, fully rated, safe wiring system for the additional 400W in front. (Still need to fix wiring for the the 110W facing backwards).
|December 17th 2003||Rubberized the battery compartment located under the passenger seat and reconnected the dual battery system (was not re-connected after the engine overhaul).|
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